Valnerina: Umbria's secret valley of nature and medieval villages

The Valnerina is the valley of the River Nera, which rises in the Sibillini Mountains and crosses southern Umbria before joining the Tiber. It is the wildest and least known part of the region: villages perched on cliffs, beech and oak forests, crystal-clear waters and a culinary tradition unique in the world. From Agriturismo Il Barco it is about 40 minutes by car.

The Cascate delle Marmore

These are the highest man-made waterfalls in Europe: 165 metres of cascading water in three superimposed drops, created by the Romans in 271 BC to drain the Rieti plain. Today the falls are regulated for hydroelectric power but are 'opened' at fixed times for visitors. The park around the falls offers hiking trails with breathtaking views. They are 5 km from Terni and easily combined with a visit to the city.

Norcia: truffles, cured meats and lentils

Norcia is Umbria's gastronomic capital. The term 'norcino' (meaning butcher or cured meat specialist) is a byword across Italy — the shops in the historic centre sell hams, salamis and sausages of international renown. The black truffle of Norcia is the most prized in Italy, used in very simple recipes that showcase its aroma. The lentils of Castelluccio (IGP), grown on the plateau of the same name at 1,400 m altitude, are among the finest legumes in the world. Norcia was severely damaged by the 2016 earthquake but is recovering tenaciously.

Cascia and Saint Rita

Cascia is the birthplace of Saint Rita, patron saint of impossible causes, a pilgrimage site for people from across Italy and the world. The modern Basilica housing her relics is an imposing twentieth-century building that welcomes millions of the faithful every year. The feast of Saint Rita is celebrated on 22 May with processions, roses and a large fair.

The villages of the Valnerina

The valley is dotted with almost deserted but highly charming medieval villages: Vallo di Nera, with its intact walls and frescoed church; Cerreto di Spoleto, perched on a rock spur; Scheggino, with its weir and the Nera river nature reserve. For hikers, the Sentiero Italia crosses the entire Valnerina through the Sibillini Mountains.

How to reach the Valnerina from Il Barco

From Agriturismo Il Barco, the Valnerina is about 40 minutes by car towards Spoleto, then following the SS209 towards Norcia. We recommend dedicating a full day, starting at the Cascate delle Marmore and working up the valley to Norcia.